REVIEW · PORTUGAL HIKING TOURS
Madeira: PR 18 – Levada do Rei Hike Transfer with Host
Green, quiet, and wonderfully easy to follow. The PR18 Levada do Rei combines a mostly level trail with Madeira’s famous Laurissilva forest, making it a fine choice if you want serious scenery without a hard mountain climb. I like the reliable van service from Funchal and the freedom to walk at your own pace, while the main drawback is that you are responsible for finding your way along a moderately difficult trail.
The route is about 11 kilometers round trip and takes roughly four hours on foot, with the full outing lasting six hours. I also like the practical help from drivers such as Fabio, Vitor, Cristiano, and Roberto, who provide trail information, maps, and safety advice. Mud, slippery patches, narrow sections, and a 4.50 euro entry fee are the details you need to plan for.
Key points to know before you book

- Mostly flat 11-kilometer route: There is a small uphill section at the start, but most of the walk follows the levada at an easy, steady grade.
- Ribeiro Bonito is the payoff: This quiet sanctuary sits deep in the Laurissilva forest, surrounded by dense trees, water, and mossy greenery.
- Transport removes the hard part: Pickup and return from designated places in Funchal, Caniço, or Garajau save you from sorting out rural buses or parking.
- This is self-guided: Your driver gives you directions and safety details, but you walk without a walking guide beside you.
- Bring proper footwear: Rain can turn the path muddy, and some narrow sections may feel uncomfortable if you dislike heights.
- Budget for the entry ticket: The hike requires an additional 4.50 euros per person, paid separately from the tour price.
Why PR18 is a good Madeira walking day
Madeira is famous for its levadas, the narrow irrigation channels that carry water across the island. Walking beside one gives you a close look at how the island’s farms and forests depend on water. PR18, also called Levada do Rei, offers this experience without the steep climbs found on some other routes.
I see this as a good middle ground. You get a proper half-day walk, but the trail is not built around dramatic ascents or a summit. The route passes through exotic trees, farm areas, water tunnels, waterfalls, and dense forest. It feels varied enough to hold your interest for several hours.
The walk is rated moderate, though many people find it easy under dry conditions. The surface can change the whole experience. After rain, mud and slick stones make the path slower, and you should not treat the word mostly flat as a promise of effortless walking.
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From Funchal to São Jorge

Pickup takes place in the morning from designated spots in Funchal, Caniço, or Garajau. The exact time is confirmed the day before or on the morning of departure, so keep your phone available and be ready near the stated location.
The drive to São Jorge takes about an hour from Funchal. That is a real part of the day, not a quick shuttle across town, but it gets you into the greener northern part of Madeira. The driver handles the road while you watch the scenery change from urban Funchal to smaller settlements and agricultural areas.
Drivers including Vitor, Fabio, Cristiano, and Roberto have been praised for punctual pickups, careful driving, and clear instructions. Fabio is also noted for making the drive pleasant with island information and music. Cristiano has provided extra stops for views on the return journey, but treat these as a welcome possibility rather than a guaranteed part of the schedule.
Pickup points require a little attention. At a hotel, wait outside the reception area. At other points, make yourself visible because the van may need to park nearby rather than directly in front of you. The company may coordinate passengers doing different routes, including PR18 and PR9, so timing matters.
Starting at the Quebradas Water Treatment Plant

The hike begins at the Water Treatment Plant of Quebradas in São Jorge. Before you set off, the local driver gives you a briefing, maps, and basic safety guidance. This is useful, but it is not the same as having a walking guide with you throughout the route.
Pay attention to the return meeting time. The van may be carrying people on different schedules, and the driver cannot wait indefinitely. One of the most important practical points is simple: finish on time and go directly to the agreed pickup spot.
The route is around 11 kilometers round trip. Expect roughly four hours of walking, although your pace, photo stops, trail conditions, and coordination with other routes can affect the schedule. The walk follows the levada, so navigation is fairly straightforward. You still need to watch your footing and remain aware of changes in the path.
Forest, farms, and green tunnels
The first part of the walk brings you through a mix of forest and agricultural scenery. Madeira’s rural areas are not just pleasant backdrops. They show how closely daily life on the island is tied to water, terraces, and cultivated ground.
As you continue, vegetation closes in around the trail. Plants form tunnel-like sections over the path, creating shade and a damp, cool feel. Water is always part of the scene, either beside the levada or falling through the forest in small cascades and waterfalls.
The Laurissilva forest is the star of PR18. This ancient forest type is associated with Madeira and gives the walk a very different character from the dry, open slopes near parts of Funchal. You can expect thick foliage, unusual plants, dripping branches, and sudden views through the trees.
The forest also helps explain why a rain jacket belongs in your day pack even when the forecast looks reasonable. Rain may arrive, but water from vegetation and waterfalls can also reach the path. One person described having to move quickly through a waterfall, which gives you a useful picture of the conditions.
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Ribeiro Bonito, the quiet end point
Ribeiro Bonito is the main natural highlight. This isolated area is enclosed by dense Laurissilva forest and feels more enclosed and remote than the earlier sections. The heavy growth, running water, and stillness make it a rewarding place to pause before turning back.
Photographers should allow time for this section. The route offers texture at close range: wet stone, moss, leaves, water channels, and filtered light. On clearer days, you may also get wider views through gaps in the trees. On foggy days, the forest loses some of its distant scenery but gains a moody atmosphere.
Do not judge the walk only by its valley views. One outing was foggy enough to block the views, yet the forest still provided a memorable setting. Weather changes quickly in Madeira, and PR18 remains worthwhile because much of its appeal comes from the trees and water close to the trail.
How difficult is the walk?
PR18 is often described as mostly flat, with a little uphill walking at the beginning. The levada gives you a consistent route, and there is no summit push. That makes it a sensible first levada walk for people who want a proper hike without a steep mountain trail.
Still, moderate difficulty means you should prepare properly. The route is long enough to tire you, especially if you are not used to four hours on foot. Mud, wet stones, and narrow sections require steady steps. People with vertigo may find some parts uncomfortable, even though the route is not dominated by climbs.
Children under 12 years old, or children under 1.35 meters tall, are not accepted. Wheelchair users cannot take part, and the activity is not suitable for people with vertigo. Those rules reflect the trail rather than the transport.
Wear hiking shoes or sturdy walking shoes with good grip. Pack water, snacks, a jacket, and rain gear. An umbrella may help in some conditions, but it can be awkward on a narrow path, so a rain jacket is the safer choice.
Self-guided freedom, with a safety net
The best feature of this setup is the balance between independence and support. You do not have to keep pace with a walking guide or listen to a running commentary for four hours. You can stop for photographs, enjoy the quiet, and move at a speed that suits you.
The tradeoff is that you must manage yourself. The driver gives you the route information and checks that you understand the arrangements, but you need to follow the trail, keep track of time, and deal with your own snacks and water.
Drivers have been praised for checking in during the hike and helping groups understand the route. Vitor, Fabio, Cristiano, Joao, and Roberto are all associated with friendly, useful support. The quality of the day depends partly on this human element, since the driver is your main contact before and after the walk.
This format suits confident walkers who like freedom. If you want a naturalist explaining every plant or someone physically leading you at the front, book a guided hike instead.
What happens after the walk?
At the end, the van returns you to your original pickup area. Depending on the group and timing, there may be a stop at a café or restaurant. A few outings have also included an old watermill or time in Santana, particularly when passengers on different routes finished at different times.
These extras are not listed as fixed stops, so do not book this activity mainly for them. Think of them as possible additions created by the day’s schedule. The core product is transport and the PR18 walk.
The return transfer matters more than it may seem. After four hours on a damp trail, having a vehicle waiting is much easier than arranging a bus or taxi from São Jorge. It also lets you enjoy the walk without worrying about finding a way back to Funchal.
Is the 47 dollar price good value?
At 47 dollars per person, the price is reasonable if you are staying in Funchal and do not have a rental car. You are paying for transport in both directions, pickup and drop-off, local driving, trail information, and the convenience of a coordinated return.
You still need to pay the 4.50 euro entry ticket. Meals and drinks are not included, so bring your own lunch, snacks, and water. A café or restaurant may be available after the walk, but it should not replace your own food supply.
The value is strongest for solo visitors, couples, and small groups who want to avoid driving Madeira’s rural roads. If you already have a car and feel comfortable reaching São Jorge, you may prefer making your own arrangements. The transfer becomes especially useful when you want a one-way walking route with a dependable ride back.
Free cancellation up to 24 hours before departure and the option to reserve now and pay later add flexibility. Just remember that the departure time is strict. If you miss the van, the service can leave without you.
How PR18 compares with a harder hiking day
PR18 is not the choice for dramatic mountain peaks or a demanding workout. Its charm comes from water, forest, and a steady rhythm. It also works well after several harder walks, as one person noted, because the route offers a cooler and gentler day without giving up Madeira’s natural beauty.
The 11-kilometer distance still gives you a satisfying outing. You are not simply stepping out of a van for a short stroll. The walk has enough length to carry you away from the road and into quieter forest.
If you are nervous about heights, read the trail conditions carefully. Some sections can feel exposed or complicated, despite the mostly level route. One person with a fear of heights found the walk manageable, but that does not mean every walker will feel the same.
Who should book this experience?
I would recommend PR18 to you if you:
- Want a half-day Madeira walk with transport included
- Prefer a mostly level route over steep mountain trails
- Enjoy forests, waterfalls, levadas, and photography
- Like walking independently after a clear briefing
- Are staying in Funchal, Caniço, or Garajau
- Can manage four hours on foot and uneven, sometimes muddy ground
I would think twice if you dislike narrow paths, have vertigo, need wheelchair access, or want a fully guided nature walk. The route is manageable for many people, but good shoes and realistic timing are essential.
Book the 4.50 euro trail ticket in advance through Madeira’s official Simplifica platform if possible. That helps secure entry and your preferred time slot. Also, choose an early departure when available. It can help with heat, crowd levels, and photography, though conditions vary.
Final verdict: a strong choice for a self-guided forest walk
You should book the PR18 Levada do Rei transfer if you want Madeira scenery without organizing rural transport yourself. The walk is long enough to feel substantial, mostly level, and packed with the details that make levadas special: flowing water, thick forest, farm terraces, waterfalls, and green passageways.
The main caution is the self-guided format. You must bring food and water, wear proper shoes, respect the return time, and feel comfortable handling a moderate trail on your own. With those points covered, the 47 dollar price offers a practical way to reach one of Madeira’s best forest walks.
FAQ
How long does the PR18 Levada do Rei experience last?
The full activity lasts about six hours. The hike itself takes around four hours, with the remaining time used for transport, rest stops, and coordination with other routes.
How long is the PR18 trail?
The hike is approximately 11 kilometers round trip.
Where does pickup take place?
Pickup is available from designated areas in Funchal, Caniço, and Garajau. The exact meeting time is confirmed the day before or on the morning of departure.
Is this a guided hike?
No. This is a self-guided hike. The driver provides a briefing, maps, directions, and safety information before you start.
What languages does the driver speak?
The driver service is available in English and Portuguese.
Is the route difficult?
The route is rated moderate. It is mostly flat, with a small uphill section at the beginning, but mud, slippery ground, narrow sections, and possible exposure can make it more demanding.
What extra cost should I expect?
The hike requires a separate 4.50 euro entry ticket per person. Meals and drinks are also not included.
Who cannot join the hike?
Children under 12 years old or under 1.35 meters tall cannot take part. The activity is also unsuitable for wheelchair users and people with vertigo.
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